10 Days in Costa Rica: A Rainy Season Itinerary

PackThePJs recently spent 10 days exploring the north west region of Costa Rica. We flew into Liberia Airport, having flown from the UK, via the US. Our arrival was late evening, so we booked into the Hilton Garden Inn; this is literally opposite the airport. The Hilton provides a regular complimentary shuttle between the airport and hotel, which is really good to know.

Day 2: Liberia to La Fortuna

First thing this morning we picked up our hire car. The Hilton Garden Inn arranged a courtesy shuttle for the short journey to Avis.

Every brand of car hire can be found along this main road into Liberia. We chose Avis because of reputation, and they offered the car we wanted (Nissan X-Trail).

Car hire information

Before we left the UK we hired the car with Economy Car Rentals. They promised the earth, including all sorts of extra insurances and the ability not to pay a deposit. The reality, once in Costa Rica, was that the car was actually being hired from Avis (so it was in good condition). And yes, we did have to pay a damage deposit. Any insurances from home with be third party promises of cover you have to claim back. Fuel is cheap, just make sure you make a deal to bring the car back full. Oh, and we hired the car-based MiFi system (that was a really good idea) unless you have a generous roaming package.

With a full tank of fuel, we drove the short distance back to the Hilton Garden Inn, to check out and load with our bags.

Driving advice

Before we left for Costa Rica we were told by several people that we must have a good 4×4 with good ground clearance, because the roads were all dirt tracks. Well, we DID drive over some dirt track roads with pot holes, but the majority of the time we drove on tarmac roads.

Because of the rainy season we avoided visiting Monteverde – we regret that now.

During our time in La Fortuna we witnessed some huge rainstorms, yet when driving the only impact these had were a few fallen branches across the carriageway that were being dealt with.

Hiring the car MiFi, so we could keep in touch with United Airlines over my missing suitcase (long story), was a total blessing in that it allowed Google Maps and Waze to work. Every time, Google maps took us door to door. It worked out at around $100 for the week, but it is unlimited MiFi and you can even use it in hotel rooms. With two tech-mad kids, this sure did stop them bickering.

Driving is fine in Costa Rica – just drive with care and attention.

It took about three hours for us to reach our La Fortuna hotel – the Volcano Lodge and Springs. We spent three nights in a Superior Thermal Room, which had two double beds and a private geothermal-heated hot tub outside (it was lovely!)

Day 3: La Fortuna – Chocolate and Coffee Tour

Today started off wet, and our planned Sloth Tour was postponed until the following day. However, we still had two tours to look forward to – located next to one another in La Fortuna. The Rainforest Chocolate Tour really engaged with the kids – definitely worth doing … educational and a whole lot of fun!

We then popped next door to Down to Earth Coffee where Matias took us on a historical, geographical, botanical and industrial tour of his family’s coffee heritage. We got hands on, picking and planting coffee seedlings, picking coffee berries – and trying them raw, dried, and then brewed. A man with a lot of passion about what he does. Fascinating tour for all coffee enthusiasts.

Day 4: La Fortuna – Hanging Bridges Tour and a Sloth Tour

We were picked up early in the morning for a walking tour of the Mystico Hanging Bridges rainforest reserve. Our guide, Diego, from Jacamar Tours, had a spotter scope and pointed out so many interesting creatures that we never would have seen without him. The hanging bridges were a bit wobbly at times, but provided a little adrenaline kick! Overall, an amazing tour, but one that I found a bit challenging at times (not helped by having the wrong footwear – walking boots were in missing suitcase).

In the afternoon we were collected by Jaime from Callidryas Tours, for a driving tour around La Fortuna on the search for sloths. We didn’t need to go far as there was one in the trees opposite the hotel! We saw lots of sloths, and much more besides (including toucans).

After the earlier tour, this one was more sedate, ending at an eco-lodge for snacks and a drink. We loved both these tours – if in La Fortuna we recommend you do both.

Day 5: La Fortuna to Tamarindo

We had a pleasant drive to Tamarindo on good roads taking about 3.5 hours. There had been a storm the night before but we only saw one tree down, which was being removed as we drove by. We visited the inevitable souvenir shop along the route, which was full of these bottle openers …

Our arrival in Tamarindo was around midday. Home for the next two nights was a very pleasant hotel in the style of a courtyard hacienda. Central to the courtyard was a lovely pool.

Having settled into our two-bedroomed poolside apartment at Ten North Tamarindo Beach Hotel we went for a walk along the beach and through the town to get our bearings. Tamarindo is a bustling seaside town, full of souvenir shops and surfer shacks. In truth, it wasn’t really for us. It was a little too ‘Spring Break’ and busy.

Day 6: Tamarindo – Snorkelling and Sea Fishing Trip

We were picked up by Blue Crab Tours to go on a private snorkelling and sea fishing trip. It was “ok” but the crew were not very interactive, and to be quite honest were a little rude. We were supposed to do some fishing as well. But the crew ate the bait as sashimi while we were snorkelling! We saw some fish (including puffer fish), landed on a deserted island (which was not so deserted as other boats were also in the bay) and then swam back to the poorly fitted out boat, with no ladder for climbing out the water. The crew had to help lift us all back into the boat. They laughed and gestured about our weight while doing so However, Millie-Mae enjoyed the snorkelling experience, so it wasn’t a total disaster.

Toby was upset as he wanted to fish; we felt rather confused as to why we weren’t when the rods were all lined up ready! We think the best thing to do in this situation is make sure you know in advance what you are paying for.

Day 7: Tamarindo to Playa Avellanas

After the disappointing boat tour the previous day, we felt pleased to leave Tamarindo. It was a bit too commercial and a bit too expensive, compared to everywhere else we’d visited. We had a pleasant 40-minute drive down the Pacific coast in our trusty four-wheel drive. Leaving behind the town hustle, we drove into a less congested, more rural and natural part of Costa Rica. We arrived at the Drift Away Eco Lodge just after lunch time. It was perfect – like a little oasis of calm.

The wildlife here was amazing and the cabana we were given was just right. The pool was great, the breakfast was lovely and we were really lucky to find such a thoughtful and well-run place.

Day 8: Playa Avellanas

Between rain showers we took a walk to the nearby beautiful deserted beach. Here we saw geckos, lizards, crabs and just sat and admired the fabulous view.

We walked right up the coast to the next bay and then it began to rain. We sheltered under coconut palms and found coconuts and sea shells (look, but don’t remove). Then we tramped home wet, tired but very happy.

Day 9: Playa Avellanas to Liberia

We were sorry to leave Drift Away Eco Lodge. We really enjoyed our stay, especially the pool and the wildlife. I would (will) return here and definitely recommend it. The drive back was fairly uneventful apart from a really unsatisfactory trip to KFC in Liberia. (Costa Rican KFC is nothing like you would expect and is really expensive.) For our last night, knowing we had a really early flight the next day, we again stayed at the Hilton Garden Inn Hotel. I think this photo explains it’s location perfectly …

Day 10: Flights home

The flight home was by United Airlines (not our favourite airline). We didn’t have the best send off … Tracey was separated from the rest of the family for random extra security checks. This was fine, but when they started boarding the airplane they didn’t tell us where she was. (She had already boarded, but we didn’t know that.) We boarded the plane reluctantly, worried that we might be leaving her behind!

Dallas was our stopover city on the homeward route. We had 5 hours, and we got a decent hamburger from McDs! By the time we reached London the following morning, we were ready to get home.

Costa Rica

We loved Costa Rica, as will you. But when we go again there are things we will do differently. We will avoid the popular towns and resorts and spend more time in eco lodges and inland within the rainforest areas. There’s an awful lot of wildlife to see and we’d love to go back to La Fortuna and travel to the Monteverde Cloud Forest. We would also try to book direct flights, as it feels a very long way when you have a US airport stopover to factor in; there’s also a better chance that you won’t lose your luggage during the transit!

Tracey went to Costa Rica to find a sloth, and we saw lots. She didn’t want to see a tarantula – and she didn’t! We met some lovely people and saw some incredible wildlife and scenery. It was an amazing adventure … and we’ll definitely go back!